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Car Buying Checklist
(86k)
CHECKING
THE OUTSIDE
- suspension:
from a distance, is the car standing level?
- body panels: any scratches or panel gaps?
- paintwork: ripples, mismatched colour or stray spray?
- bodywork: look down the sides for dents or bulges
- rust: door-bottoms & sills, wheelarches, boot lid?
- wheel rims: any dents, scuffs or cracks?
- tyres: check tread depth & wear pattern. Different make
at each corner = car maintained on the cheap. Wear on the outer shoulder
means it's been hard driven.
- glass: cracked or chipped, especially the windscreen? Windows
etched with matching reg number?
- shock absorbers: signs of leaks or too bouncy?
- underneath: rust or evidence of welding or repairs?
- lights: all working? Any lens moisture?
- doors: creaking or ill-fitting?
CHECKING THE INSIDE
-
smell: smoking? pets? damp or musty?
- carpets: feel them thoroughly for dampness
- seats: look under any covers. Bad wear, particularly on driver's
side = probable high miles
- gearknob / steering wheel: shiny and worn?
- mileometer: numbers line up? Scratched or painted over?
-
pedal rubbers: worn, missing or suspiciously new?
- instrument panel screws: scratched or rounded?
- doors: all handles and locks working?
- sunroof: winds back & tilts fully? No sign of leaks or
rust?
- alarm: ask for a demo
- boot: look under the the carpet for rust, paint ripples or
overspray. Is the spare wheel inflated and has the jack and wheel nut
spanner?
CHECKING THE OILY BITS
-
is the engine warm? Possible bad starter that's been prepared for
you.
- engine bay: very oily - where it shouldn't be? Or suspiciously
sparkling clean? Signs of oil leaks? Wires or hoses hanging loose?
- hoses: hard, cracked or split?
- oil: light brown or pitch black on the dipstick? Any white
foam under the oil filler cap - sign of engine wear?
- water: CARE! Check engine is cool before opening cap. Is there
water to the proper level & what colour is it? Should be green or
blue not a rusty colour. Does the level move when you squeeze a radiator
hose?
- other fluids: are the brake fluid, gearbox and power steering
oil full to the proper levels?
- wiring: cracked or burned outer coating? Neat connections or
botched repairs?
- engine belts: loose or frayed?
- front suspension: rust around the mountings?
- exhaust: most will have some rust, but how serious is it?
- CV joints: split rubber bellows where the suspension arms meet
the engine? Expensive MOT failure point.
- look at the ground: any oily marks where the car is usually
parked?
TEST DRIVING
-
YOU drive it. Are you insured to?
- comfort: can you get comfortable and see the instruments and
outside the car easily?
- dash lights: are all of them on at the first click of the key?
Are the gauges moving?
- starting: a large amount of smoke from the exhaust? Eager or
sluggish starter? Any noisy rattling or knocking? Does it idle smoothly?
Have the dash lights all gone out?
- let it idle and test the toys: do all the buttons and stalks
work? Stereo? Heater / air con? Wipers & washers?
- steering: any play in the wheel at standstill? Power steering
smooth and quiet lock to lock? Any vibration when on the move? Does
it need correction to travel straight? Any noises driving at full lock
in a circle?
- engine: does it accelerate smoothly without noticeable knocking
or rattling? Any smoke from the exhaust on revving?
- clutch: does it engage long before the top of the pedal travel?
Try accelerating hard at a slow speed in a high gear - does acceleration
match revs?
- gears: easy and smooth to change? No grinding or jumping out
of gear?
- brakes: find a safe place to apply them hard. Does the car
stop straight and quickly? No vibration, grinding, or moving to one
side? Is the pedal movement smooth and easy? Is the handbrake working?
- suspension: does the car absorb bumps smoothly or bounce and
hop over them? Any knocking noises on bumps?
- watch the gauges: oil, fuel, temperature - are they working
and reading normal levels? Is the milometer turning? Are any warning
lights on?
- let the seller drive you back: listen for annoying rattles,
squeaks and vibrations
- after parking: let the engine idle and check it doesn't overheat.
Any smoke from the exhaust? Any serious drips or leaks coming from underneath
the car? Stop the engine - does it start again easily?
CHECKING THE PAPERWORK
-
ask to see the service records and registration document (called the
V5). NEVER buy a car without a V5. No documents? Walk away.
- V5: first check it's genuine - look for the DVLA watermark.
- match it to the car: check the number plate and chassis number
on the V5 match those on the car. Look very carefully at the car's VIN
plate or stamped chassis numbers for signs of tampering.
- MOT certificate: check the expiry date is as claimed and check
that it's genuine at www.motinfo.gov.uk
- seller's ID: check the address of the seller matches the address
on the V5 and ask for proof of the seller's ID.
- on the V5: check the last change of ownership date and number
of previous keepers is as claimed.
- tax disc: is it genuine and for the right car?
- service records: ideally you want to see an up-to-date, stamped
dealer service book, or otherwise a big file of receipts showing regular
servicing or recording what's been done to the car.
- what's been serviced: who has been doing the servicing &
what has been repaired/replaced? If a vital service like a cambelt change,
call the dealer to confirm it was done.
- regular services: how long before the next service is due?
- check mileage: compare the dates on service receipts with the
car's mileages, if recorded - and to the car's current milometer reading.
See how the car's mileage has changed over time. Does it all add up?
- warranty: find out what's covered and what's not - parts and
labour? Ask about excesses, limitations and whether anything would invalidate
it.
- speak to the previous owner: if at a dealer, note the name
& address of the previous keeper from the V5 and use directory enquiries
to give them a call. Did they have any problems with the car - why did
they sell it?
- get a car history check: a dealer should have done this already - ask them. If not, or if buying privately, ring one of the car history checking agencies. Don't get lumbered with a car that's been stolen, not fully paid for, or written off.
